During our road trip in Florida, I had one goal in mind: to see manatees! Unfortunately, since we had to postpone the trip, I knew it would be a little more challenging… But, as often happens, nature was incredibly generous, and that’s how I fell in love with one of its most adorable creatures 😊!

Who am I?

I’m the manatee, sometimes nicknamed the ‘sea cow,’ and my ancestors inspired the legend of mermaids. Despite what you might think 😉, I have very little fat and need warm water to survive. That means I have to move around to find spots where the water temperature is just right for me (above 21°C). I spend most of my day grazing on aquatic plants, my main food, and I regularly come to the surface to breathe. I can grow up to 4 meters long and weigh nearly 600 kg. My reproduction is slow: I carry my calf for about 12 months, and it will stay by my side for around two years.
Even though I might make you want to hug me, I’m a protected species, and it’s very important to keep a safe distance when you meet me. Every interaction should be gentle and respectful—just like me 😊.

Where to find me?

I hang out in warm waters, rivers, and natural springs. You’re most likely to spot me in winter, between November and March. During this time, we gather in the springs, drawn by the constant and warmer water temperatures.

Some places have become famous for spotting me easily, like Crystal River or Blue Spring State Park. In winter, we gather there, sometimes by the hundreds, a truly impressive sight! Of course, you can also see me elsewhere in Florida, like in the Weeki Wachee River, Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, and more.

First Encounters

We caught a brief glimpse of our first manatee noses 😉 at Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, from the Manatee Observation Deck, but the water was murky at the time. Our first real encounter, however, happened during a canoe trip in the beautiful Silver Springs State Park.

As often happens, it appeared just when we least expected it. Just when we thought we’d come back empty-handed, a magnificent manatee swam right past our canoe. The encounter was brief but intense. By sliding the camera underwater, we even managed to capture a completely unexpected shot—taken literally blind 😉—something we never imagined we’d get!

Swimming with a beautiful mermaid

After weighing the pros and cons, I booked a trip to Crystal River with Fun 2 Dive to swim with the manatees. The company seemed responsible and respectful of the animals, and indeed, that was the case. It was just the two of us, along with an adorable family of four, and our boat was the only one in the area. Despite the season, we were lucky enough to get a very close encounter with a manatee. An incredible moment, especially when Mrs. Manatee decided to snuggle up to me 😍! Of course, during peak season, the experience must be even more amazing!

I should mention that the rules for this encounter were very strict: no sudden movements when moving around, no getting too close (at least for us 😉), and observation time was limited. The guide made sure everything was strictly respected.

Nothing but love, pure love

Ultimately, our most amazing moment with these incredible animals happened at Three Sisters Springs, a place well-known for its manatee population. Yet, when we arrived, the sign at the entrance said there were no manatees that day… and imagine our surprise when we stumbled upon a mother and her adorable calf in a truly idyllic setting! Crystal-clear blue water, lush vegetation, jumping fish 😉, birds… in short, just perfect!

We stayed for a long, long time just watching them, and even had a picnic on a bench to prolong this extraordinary moment. I didn’t know it at the time, but it’s actually possible to go snorkeling in this beautiful place, with certain areas specially reserved for manatees.

After this encounter, we didn’t see any again, except in the Keys, where we spotted some swimming along the beach near our hotel. I knew before leaving that I would love them, and it far exceeded my expectations! We both completely fell in love with these animals, which radiate so much gentleness. I even decided to “adopt” one upon returning through the Save the Manatee Club, and I am now the sponsor of beautiful Phyllis 😉!

The post Falling in Love with Florida’s Manatees first appeared on NaturElfes.

Quebec is my “home” at heart, and I’ve been there many times. I’ve been lucky enough to cross paths with many animals. Here’s a little glimpse of the adorable inhabitants (besides the Quebecers 😉) you might encounter if you ever get the chance to explore this beautiful Canadian region.

Beavers

Beavers can be found almost anywhere water flows. They can be observed year-round, but spring and summer offer the best chances to see them active, especially at dusk and during the night. I was lucky enough to watch several of them swimming, feeding, and even slapping the water with their tail, very impressive 😉. I spotted them in several national parks, including Forillon and La Mauricie, but it was at Plaisance National Park where I had the most sightings.

Moose

The moose is the largest member of the deer family in North America. It is widespread in Quebec’s forests, especially in the north and in more remote wilderness areas. Usually solitary, or sometimes seen in small groups, it is most active at dawn and dusk. I was lucky enough to observe two of them in summer in Gaspésie National Park: a magnificent male, completely unafraid, calmly feeding right beside the trail, and a female peacefully resting nearby.

What’s incredible is that despite their massive size, they blend perfectly into the surroundings. The third encounter was a real surprise: it happened on a ski trail right in the town of Mont-Tremblant, completely unexpected.

Cetaceans

Quebec is home to a rich diversity of whales in the St. Lawrence River and its surrounding waters. Among them are several species of rorquals (including humpback and fin whales), as well as porpoises and belugas. To get closer to them, you can join boat excursions, ideally in small groups. However, it is also entirely possible to observe them from the shore, there are several great spots for this between Tadoussac and Les Escoumins.

I was able to see many whales simply by sitting quietly along the St. Lawrence River, in a stunning landscape — truly magical! I also went on two whale-watching boat trips, one in July and the other in September. Both experiences were incredible, during which I saw common minke whales and porpoises. September was definitely the month with the most activity, which locals confirmed to me. It’s also worth noting that belugas are often spotted during the ferry crossing at Tadoussac.

Black bear

The black bear is found throughout much of Quebec’s forests, although its density varies depending on the region. You’re more likely to spot one in national parks and protected areas, but it remains a discreet animal that is rarely seen. That’s what makes it even more extraordinary to have had the chance to see one. It happened during an autumn road trip, as we were driving along the road that crosses Jacques-Cartier National Park, when I suddenly spotted one. You can imagine how euphoric I was 😉!

Fortunately, there was a small parking area, so we were able to watch it calmly. Then, when it got into the water and started heading toward our shore, we quickly got back into the car. It was the day after we arrived in Quebec, and let’s just say I told everyone we met afterward about this incredible encounter 😉.

Seals

Seals are mainly found along the St. Lawrence River and on its islands. Several species can be observed there, including the harbor seal and the gray seal.
My first encounter with them took place in Gaspésie, during the summer, in Bic and Forillon National Parks.

Later, I was lucky enough to have an incredible adventure in the Magdalen Islands in the middle of winter: going to meet Greenland seals and their adorable babies, the famous whitecoat pups, on the ice floe.

A dream come true, almost at the last minute, since this activity stopped shortly afterward due to the lack of sufficiently solid ice.

Red fox

The red fox is widespread throughout Quebec. Like many wild animals, it is most active at dawn and dusk. You can spot it fairly easily in national parks and nature reserves. We were lucky to see several in La Mauricie National Park. They seemed very relaxed 😉, which allowed me to take some beautiful photos and fully enjoy these encounters.

Birds

Quebec is home to a great diversity of birds. Beyond the cute songbirds, I was able to observe woodpeckers, beautiful blue jays, seabirds, and the stunning common loon.

The famous Canada geese were also present, and in autumn at the Cap-Tourmente National Wildlife Reserve, I witnessed the impressive migratory stopover of the greater snow goose: dozens of white geese gathered together, a spectacular sight.

Finally, I ended up crossing paths with the stunning grouse in Grands-Jardins National Park

Caribou

The caribou is the northernmost member of the deer family in Quebec, living mainly in the taiga and boreal regions. Today, populations are limited and often difficult to spot. Outside the remote wilderness of northern Quebec, the only place you can realistically hope to see them is Gaspésie National Park, particularly along the Mont Jacques-Cartier trail. It’s a fairly demanding hike: 8.3 km round trip with an elevation gain of 465 m, and it is regulated. To protect the caribou, the trailhead is only accessible by shuttle in the morning, and the trail is open from July 1st to September 30th.

Naturally, during my road trip in Gaspésie, I had this hike on my list. To maximize my chances, I took the first shuttle, and despite the elevation gain, I managed to be among the first at the summit. Only animals can make me pull off such feats 😉. At the top, the reward was there: a female caribou that let me watch her for a few moments before disappearing. It was also on this trail that I saw my first male moose!

Porcupine

The porcupine is found throughout Quebec, both in dense forests and more open areas. Mainly nocturnal, it spends the day resting in tree cavities or burrows.

I had no idea this animal lived in Quebec, and it was in Forillon National Park that I came across two adorable balls of fur… and quills, right in the middle of a picnic 😉. To my delight, they seemed completely indifferent to my presence, which allowed me to watch them for a long time. Another favorite animal encounter 😊!

And many more…

Of course, there were plenty of other encounters, like squirrels, deer, rabbits… Some of these species are particularly common and much less shy compared to those you can see in France. I was able to enjoy them to the fullest 😉!

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While planning our road trip in Florida, I discovered that it’s possible to witness one of nature’s most magical shows: the fireflies.
Capturing this phenomenon in photos or videos is tricky — a long exposure is needed to truly do justice to the beauty of the moment. That’s why, for this article, the firefly images come from online sources. Now, off to Florida for an evening full of magic.

Who am I?

“I am a firefly, a small glowing beetle, not to be confused with glowworms, which, unlike me, don’t fly. My tiny body hides a superpower: I can produce light, a phenomenon called bioluminescence. This light can be green, yellow, or orange — and even my eggs glow at night!
Beyond its beauty, my light helps me communicate with other fireflies and find a mate. My life cycle is short and precious: as an adult, I only live a few weeks, just long enough to reproduce. Each evening during this brief period, I join my fellow fireflies in a perfectly synchronized light dance, turning spring nights into a magical spectacle.

Where to find me?

Every year, for just a few weeks between March and April, Blue Spring State Park in Florida allows visitors to witness our spectacular show. This event, called ‘Firefly Nights,’ takes place after the park’s regular closing hours and requires a ticket. Tickets can be purchased online, guaranteeing entry, or on the day of the event at the park, though availability is not guaranteed. The ticket price ($14) is in addition to the park’s regular entrance fee.

Our appearance depends on the weather: we prefer warm evenings with no rain and no wind. Each night, our activity level (from low to high) is assessed by the park and shared on social media, helping visitors choose the best time to see us. Once night falls, you can start observing us while walking along the boardwalk through the forest, until the park closes at 9 PM. Keep in mind, our display is brief and attracts many visitors, so you won’t be alone — but we promise it will still be magical.

The Enchanted Forest

With all the right weather conditions on the day of our visit, I was really excited to witness this spectacle. We arrived at the park around 5 PM and enjoyed its beauty and wildlife.

We walked along the boardwalk through the forest once, then had a picnic at one of the park’s many tables, under beautiful trees. After a stunning sunset, we returned to the boardwalk, eagerly waiting for the ‘show’ to begin.

As we walked along peacefully, we heard a rustle and spotted an armadillo — a wonderful little gift 😊! Barely recovering from the surprise, I noticed a tiny green flicker, then a second, a third… Even knowing why I was there, it took me a few seconds to realize: the fireflies’ dance had begun.
Gradually, their numbers increased until the entire forest was lit up. In an instant, the scenery transformed into a truly magical, enchanting landscape, as if someone had decorated the forest with Christmas lights 😊. We were surrounded by thousands of tiny green lights, blinking and moving through the darkness, sometimes right beside us. We walked the boardwalk twice, unable to take our eyes off this magical spectacle. Then, reluctantly, we made our way back.
As we left the park, we noticed that the forest along the road was sparkling too: thousands of tiny lights glimmered among the trees, offering one last moment of magic.

That moment was truly incredible, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful experiences we’ve ever had. It was so magical that I still feel deeply grateful to have been there at the right time to witness this unique spectacle. The following day, the park’s Facebook page confirmed that firefly activity had been particularly intense that evening.

The post A Magical Night in Florida: The Dance of the Fireflies first appeared on NaturElfes.

Since I was very young, I’ve had a true passion for books and have always loved inventing stories. The soft, magical world of children is also mine , and ever since I became an aunt to two adorable little ones, I’ve had the joy of diving into this wonderful universe very often. It is surely thanks to all of this that the idea for this collection was born and that I decided to take the leap.
I started with the idea of creating short books designed to help children express their wishes by identifying with four lovable animals: a hedgehog, a monkey, a turtle, and a bird.
For the illustrations, I used Canva Pro, assembling, modifying, and refining different images to create gentle and very cute scenes.

Two versions are available on Amazon (currently in English only):
– the ebook version, around ten pages long, ideal for a quick read,
– the paperback version, which includes an activity section at the end for children (coloring, drawing, spot-the-difference games, etc.).

This collection is, for me, a way to bring together my love of nature and books, while offering little ones stories that invite them to dream and explore their wishes day by day.
Now, fingers crossed that they enjoy it — the first test with my nephew was a success, which is already a great start .

The post “Today I Feel Like”: My First Children’s Book Collection first appeared on NaturElfes.

During my last trip to Norway (see post), I had hesitated to go see the musk oxen, but the long drive had put me off… Still drawn to these magnificent prehistoric “moo-moos,” I took advantage of the magical colors of the Norwegian tundra in autumn to go in search of them.

Who am I?

I am the musk ox, a true survivor from prehistory. With my thick, woolly coat, I am perfectly adapted to northern climates and capable of withstanding the extreme temperatures of the tundra. I am imposing: I can reach 1.5 meters at the shoulder and weigh up to 400 kg. My massive crescent-shaped horns, present in both males and females, help me defend myself and assert my place within the herd, where I live alongside other individuals. Our herds can range from 10 to 30 members, with composition varying by season. Like humans, my calf develops in my womb for nine months, but it stays by my side for only the first two years of its life 😉. Still, it is fairly independent from as early as two months old, able to find most of its food, which consists mainly of lichens and tundra grasses. To communicate, we use grunts, calls, and powerful breaths, which warn other herd members, signal threats, or maintain group cohesion. Once extinct in Norway, I was reintroduced into Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park, but I can also be found in Alaska, Canada, Greenland, and Siberia.

Where to find me?

If you want to meet me in Norway, there is only one place where I still live in the wild: Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park (along the E6 road, between Oslo and Trondheim).
Good news: I’m here all year round, but despite my size, I’m not that easy to spot.
By following the Musk Ox Trail, you’ll have a good chance of catching a glimpse of me. Several hiking trails are available, depending on how much you feel like walking. You can also take a detour to the Høgsnyta viewpoint (1,320 m above sea level), where I’m often seen.
Please note that you can only encounter me on the west side of the E6 highway (the left side on the map).

If you like, there are also guided tours with a guide who knows how to spot me. In any case, you’ll need patience, strong legs 😉, and perhaps several attempts to get lucky and see me. Keep in mind that I share this territory with other charming residents: wild reindeer, moose, and arctic foxes… plenty of reasons to come and explore the park!

On the Trail of a Prehistoric Animal

The day after our arrival, we decided to head out in the late afternoon into Dovrefjell National Park. We chose to do the short 5.2 km loop, starting from the Kongsvold Fjeldstue Hotel and returning via the station. The first two kilometers steadily climb through a birch forest before opening up onto the barren plateau, a stunning tundra painted with the colors of autumn.

This is where we began our search for these magnificent giants. The hardest part was choosing which path to take, but we decided to continue the loop.

We scanned every corner with our binoculars, watched people in the distance to see if they spotted anything, and noticed many signs of their presence—droppings, tracks… but no oxen in sight.

We started to climb up to the Høgsnyta viewpoint, but eventually turned back, exhausted from our long morning hike. The descent along the other trail back to the station was tough—the path is narrow and rugged. Along the way, we met a lovely couple from Quebec, who had started at the same time but on a different route. They hadn’t seen any musk oxen either. This first attempt mainly helped us get familiar with the terrain and plan our second expedition, with a bit more strategy 😉.
A little aside: the park is absolutely stunning, especially with the autumn colors. It’s wild, vast, and really makes you want to come and do a trek! We even came across several people camping in the area.

The Magic Moment

Two days later, we were back, this time just after sunrise. We decided to go up and come down the same trail (the one right across from the hotel) to save our energy for exploring the plateau! Once again, the ascent took us through birch trees and the fiery colors of autumn.

Once we reached the top, we left the Musk Ox Trail and went straight ahead, without any particular reason, simply because this spot was calling me. I had braced myself for hours of searching… but after only a few meters, three dark shapes started moving in the distance. I first checked through the lens, a bit in disbelief, before letting my joy explode—they were there! Two adults and a calf 😊.

Since we were still far away, we decided to get closer—it’s amazing how fast I can move when I’m motivated 😉. We circled around them at a distance and sat down to watch. They, on the other hand, kept moving for a while before lying down in the tundra for a nap 😊.

In the end, the cold got the better of us and we had to leave them, with heavy hearts but deeply fulfilled. Still euphoric from the encounter, we slowly made our way back down to the car.

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As with every trip I take, I’m always on the lookout for which wild animal I might encounter. So when the idea of going to Réunion Island came up, I immediately added this adorable little resident to my list.
Let’s go in search of Rapunzel’s little “Pascal” 😉.

Who am I?

Belonging to the species Furcifer pardalis, I am also known as the “Sleepy” Chameleon of Réunion. My nickname comes from the way I move: very, very slowly 😊. I was introduced to the island from Madagascar in the 17th century, and today I am protected and considered a symbol of Réunion’s wildlife.
Males are much more colorful than females: bright green, turquoise blue, orange, or red, while females display softer shades.
Contrary to what you might think, I mostly change color to communicate. These changes can signal different moods, deter a predator, or impress a rival.
Another surprising fact: my eyes can move independently of each other, allowing me to look in two directions at once!

Where to find me?

Even though I’m quite common on the island, I’m not so easy to spot because I’m small and a master of camouflage 😊. If you want to catch a glimpse of me in my natural habitat, you’ll need patience, a keen eye, and a bit of luck.

I can be found throughout Réunion Island, up to about 1,000 meters in altitude, mainly in wooded areas, sugarcane fields, parks, and gardens. If you’re visiting Réunion, you’ll most likely spot me in botanical gardens, such as Jardin d’Éden. To increase your chances, note that the wet season (December to March) is the best time to see me, as I’m more active during this period.

In Search of Pascal

On the first day of our arrival, we headed straight to Jardin d’Éden for my favorite activity: searching for nature’s treasures.
We explored it several times, inspecting every branch and every leaf… but despite the signs announcing their presence, no “Pascal” in sight 😉. The person at the reception explained that September isn’t the best time to spot them. That didn’t stop us from having an amazing time, though. We loved this small, authentic, and intimate garden, which was full of other wonders: colorful tropical flowers, a peaceful atmosphere, and, above all, adorable green geckos.

The Encounter

On the last day of our trip, after several unsuccessful searches during our hikes and a visit to another botanical garden, we returned to Jardin d’Éden. And this time, nature gave us the most wonderful gift. Around a bush, our eyes finally fell on a tiny ochre creature, perfectly still amid the vegetation. Pure bliss!

We spent a long time observing this extraordinary animal: its very slow movements, the shape of its little feet, and especially its famous eyes that move in opposite directions. As amazing as it was unsettling—and we still didn’t get to see its tongue 😉!

As we continued along the trail, another burst of joy: a second chameleon, a bit more colorful, well hidden among the leaves. This one performed a few acrobatics (still in slow motion 😉), perfect for admiring its unique movements. Finding two “Pascals” on the last day was the perfect way to end this trip.

The post In Search of Rapunzel’s Pascal first appeared on NaturElfes.

Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve been surrounded by animals: chickens, geese, cats, ducks, dogs, guinea pigs, rats, rabbits, goats… and each of them has marked my life in its own way, forever.
Over the years, I’ve naturally had to say goodbye to many of them, which is always very difficult. But I hold on to all the good memories and, above all, to the fact that they were much loved. Their lives, however short, were beautiful.

This article is for all of them, whether they’re still here or have already joined animal heaven. To pay tribute to them, to thank them for all they’ve given me and all they still give me on a daily basis: a lot of love… and a little (a lot 😉 ) of worry. The quality of many of the photos leaves something to be desired, as most were taken a long time ago, but it’s what they show that’s important.

My beloved Toto

My big dog Tommy (aka Toto), a 52-kilo Beauceron, was as impressive as he was gentle. We had a very strong bond, no doubt linked to all the hours of hiking we spent together.

We particularly enjoyed watching the sunset, and roaming the woods to observe animals discreetly, which he did wonderfully. He also had a passion for stuffed animals 😊, and I tried to bring him one from each of my trips.

He was a very gentle dog with all living creatures, whether with my little nephew, my cat, my chickens or the birds in the garden.

I remember one day when our old Coincoin, now a little blind, flew off and landed on his belly as he slept in the grass. Toto just raised his head and looked at him with a look of both surprise and exasperation 😉!!! That was him: a quiet, yet fragile force.

Ever since he was a child, he had suffered from an intestinal disease that forced him to follow a strict diet. In February 2024, he fell ill and we thought it was, once again, his tummy. But after several examinations, the vet told us that he had spleen cancer and had only a few days to live. Unfortunately, the prognosis was correct and we had to say goodbye to him ten days later. It’s still very painful today, because I miss him so much. I find it hard to accept that I didn’t have time to see his first white hairs appear 😊, but we often talk about him, and that comforts me a lot.

The cat who fell from the sky

My cat Minou (not very original 😉 ) left me in 2020 at the age of 16. We were very close, because this cat literally imposed himself on me. He arrived one day (abandoned? lost?), barely two months old. He had taken up residence under our shed and was very wild.

We’d lost all our cats to the road and I didn’t want any more. I tried to avoid him for the first few days… but if you don’t want him, he’ll come back. So I started bringing him food, then I spent hours in the cold trying to tame him. It took a long time, but finally, he left his shed for… my bed 😊! Sleeping with him, lulled to sleep by his purrs, are among my fondest memories.

He’s a cat who’s always kept a wild side, while being very docile and gentle. He was especially apprehensive about mans. He made friends with Mina, our adorable little Shih Tzu, also abandoned by the roadside. The two of them slept and played together.

Like Mina, he died of old age. It was very painful, but knowing that he had reached the end of his life helped me a lot.

The two bunnies in love

I have two adorable rabbits living with me in the house: Poupinette, a little semi-dwarf rabbit given to me by my sister, and her darling Loulou, who arrived in a rather unusual way.

Loulou is the result of a forbidden love 😉 between a farm rabbit and a wild rabbit. He’s taken everything from his daddy and really looks like a wild rabbit. Following an attack by a wild animal, I found him abandoned, still tiny and unweaned. So I took him in and bottle-fed him for several weeks. By then, I’d already had Poupinette for two years. My Poupette has a strong character, so much so that despite her small size, she terrorizes the members of my family 😉.

As a result, the beginning between the two of them was complicated, then they finally fell head over heels for each other. They’ve now been living together for eight years… and with me 😉 ! They’re cuddly and regularly jump on the sofa to get their petting fix. That’s how I discovered the rabbits’ adorable gnashing of happy teeth.

Poupinette has a record number of emergency visits to the vet, most often at weekends… because she’s prone to intestinal obstructions. This is fatal for rabbits if not treated in time. Even though I’ve adapted their diet and brush them when they’re moulting, it continues to happen, so I have to remain vigilant.

Mother and daughter goats

I love goats, probably because they were the first pets I ever had. When I was 7, my parents brought home a rather wild semi-dwarf goat, Cigale, which took a lot of patience to tame.

She went on to have kids (the kids are so cute 😊). In her last litter, three babies were born. As goats only have two teats, one of the kids was very sickly. So I bottle-fed him in addition. I was very attached to her and my parents decided to keep her with us. That’s how Jane joined our family.

Both had strong tempers (especially with dogs), but they were adorable, loved to be petted and, above all, to go for walks on a leash… to check if the grass was greener elsewhere 😉. I spent a lot of time sitting in their paddock reading in their company. Jane and Cicada had a lovely life. They left us at the age of 15 for the mother and 20 for the daughter, a very good age for a goatie!

The feathered family

There have always been lots of chickens at home, usually accompanied by two geese and a duck (now two).

In my opinion, chickens are poorly regarded animals, often considered “stupid”… which is totally untrue! I’ve created several bonds with hens and roosters. Our current little silk hen, Paulette, is a perfect example. She recognizes her name, follows us everywhere and makes us laugh a lot (her looks have a lot to do with it 😉 ).

Pitchounette, a bare-necked hen, is one of the ones who made the biggest impression on me. When I’d sit in the pen, she’d come running over, snuggle between my legs and beg to be petted. She’s a real sweetheart!

Our first duck, Coincoin, had a special story. A friend had found an abandoned mallard egg and entrusted it to us. We placed it under a broody hen. One morning, there he was, with his adorable face! He never left, even though he flew very well. Probably because he’s always thought of himself more as a little hen 😊.

What about you? Your stories

Of course, I haven’t mentioned all the animals that have been part of my life, but they’ve all counted, and left their paw prints on me.
What about you? Who are the companions who share or have shared your life? I’d love to read your stories, your memories, how you coped with their loss. Because it’s always comforting to talk to other animal lovers and share the good times as well as the more difficult ones.

Many thanks my loves ❤️!

The post Once upon a time, our pets first appeared on NaturElfes.

Like every year, we felt the urge (and the need) to go on a trek. After our first experience with a “long-distance” hike on the Itinérêve trail in Dordogne, we were eager to try something similar again. That’s how I came across the Saint-Guilhem Trail — a 149-mile route between Aumont-Aubrac and Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. It looked lightly traveled and passed through beautiful, varied landscapes.
After doing some research, I started planning our route, fully aware there would probably be some surprises or changes along the way — as is always the case with trekking — and luckily, there were !

Before the Trek

Même si un trek c’est beaucoup d’imprévus ça nécessite une bonne préparation en amont, surtout quand on bivouaque et qu’on porte un gros sac ! Pour ça, je suis allée sur le site internet du chemin et j’ai acheté le bouquin Topo-Guides de FFRandonnée. Ces livres sont bien faits mais ont un seul gros défaut ils ne donnent pas les dénivelés, ce qui a une énorme importance pour estimer la difficulté du trek et ainsi prévoir ses étapes. Je les ajoute donc en me servant, le plus souvent, des traces GPS en ligne.

Vert: variante prise – Jaune: variante possible

From there, I had to try to map out the stages to get an idea of how many days it would take, and therefore how much food we’d need and where we could resupply. It also helped to identify potential camping spots—especially since water can be scarce on this trail—and locate accommodations. Thanks to the Géonautrices website, I knew that camping wouldn’t be easy on this route due to limited water sources and tricky terrain (fences, rocks, etc.). So, I marked some municipal campgrounds and a mountain hut to keep things as simple as possible.
Halfway through, I planned a rest day as a reward and to recover just a short 9.3 miles walk and a night in a hotel !

Once the stages were roughly planned, all that was left was to prepare the food and pack the bagwhere everything was carefully weighed ! It might sound over the top, but after your first trek (and often the first mistake of carrying a pack that’s too heavy), you quickly realize that weight is one of the most important factors. With experience, we’ve equipped ourselves (and continue to do so) with quality, lightweight gear, check the practical info section for a detailed list.
So, we set off on June 23rd, aiming to arrive by July 3rd, 2023, to avoid the summer crowds and intense heat (which didn’t quite work out on the heat part ).

Day 1: Aumont-Aubrac – Cascade du Déroc

First day, first change ! We had planned to start the trek the evening before, after the drive, with about six miles to cover, but at the last minute, the weather forecast called for a big storm and heavy rain. So, we arrived the day before as planned but stayed at the Hôtel des Prunières in Aumont-Aubrac.
The next morning, after a good breakfast and surprised to see so many hikers passing by (the beginning of this trek shares the same route as the Camino de Santiago), we caught up on the miles we missed the day before by taking a shuttle arranged for the Camino hikers. It dropped us off at a spot called Les 4 Chemins, letting us skip about 5 miles.

So we set off immediately feeling all the familiar sensations of carrying a heavy backpack, 13 kg for me and 15 kg for my partner. The relationship with your backpack on a trek is a bit like a rollercoaster between love and hate ! It is our home, we know it inside and out, everything has its place, and without it, we have nothing. At the same time, it is our biggest burden. But honestly, even though we are happy to take it off whenever we can, we really do love it because it becomes a true companion and you have to admit, today’s backpacks are pretty well made.

We started on a beautiful trail surrounded by flowers and cows ! I was amazed by the sheer number and variety of flowers, and little did I know this was just a preview of what was to come. For our lunch break, we aimed for the Marchastel bridge hoping to dip our feet in the water, but unfortunately, the river wasn’t accessible.

A little side note: over time, we noticed there’s nothing better than dipping our feet in cool water during breaks to almost reset them . So we settled down halfway along the trail next to some cows. Our first picnic with our supplies: bread, saucisson, cheese, and chips!

After a short break (compared to the ones on the following days ), we set off again and took a beautiful trail that gained us some elevation amid the Aubrac plateaus.

After 3 miles without any difficulties, we arrived in Nasbinals. There, we decided to leave the Saint-Guilhem trail and take the Urbain V route instead. This choice was motivated by two reasons: first, it saved us about 9.3 miles, and second, it would allow us to see the Déroc waterfall.

Since the beginning of the trek follows the Camino de Santiago, we had come across quite a few hikers, but from that point on, the trail became much wilder. We hesitated for a while about setting up our tent at the edge of a field before the waterfall, but in the end, we decided to push on and reach it.

The waterfall is truly beautiful. The trail leading down is a bit rough, but once you get to the bottom, it is stunning. A small meadow, the river, and you can walk right up to the base of the falls where there are some really pretty rock formations. So we decided to camp here for the night, and since it was still early, we waited until nightfall to set up the tent.

In the meantime, we enjoyed the river water and had our first freeze-dried dinners of the trip: spaghetti Bolognese for both of us. All the info about food can be found in the Practical Info section.

Summary of the day: first mile, cows, flowers, a waterfall, and our first wild camp. 5h40 of hiking (2h30 of breaks), 12.1 miles, 1,076 ft elevation gain / 1,004 ft descent.

Day 2 Cascade du Déroc – Bois des Salces

First wake-up and first rough night . As usual, it is hard to sleep well in a tent, especially in the first few days, and we had not expected how loud it would be sleeping near a waterfall. During the day, you do not hear the sound the same way. We packed up the tent quickly at sunrise, since that is the rule for wild camping, and had breakfast on a rock: tea, peach-flavored energy drink instead of juice, BelVitas, and freeze-dried scrambled eggs. Then we threw the beast back on our backs and let’s go. The first few miles were on pavement, tough on the feet, but luckily it was a quiet little country road.

Then we took a trail, and after passing a cattle gate, we arrived in a beautiful landscape of endless meadows, with lovely cows and their handsome Mr. Bull .

A beautiful trail through vast green landscapes, a true feeling of freedom! Just like the day before, the sun was shining, but since the wind was quite strong, we didn’t realize we were getting sunburned !

We came out of the fields and started a long, very long stretch of road about 5 miles. We rejoined the Saint Guilhem Trail near a beautiful peat bog and continued along the road, where we took our morning break with some seed packets and bars.

After letting a runaway cow pass we finally turned onto a trail that once again led us through wide open meadows.

We took our lunch break there, by a small stream where our poor tired feet could rest, and we were able to dry the tent that was damp from the morning dew. The only downside was that there was no shade, so we wrapped ourselves up from head to toe with whatever we had . We also met our first fellow hiker of the day, who was carrying a tent as well.

After the break, we continued through the meadows until we reached the well-known Rajas refuge. It’s a lovely stone house set in the middle of nature, where you can spend the night. It’s a common stop for hikers on the Saint Guilhem Trail, but we still had a few more miles to go, so we aimed for the forest up ahead to find a spot for our bivouac.

Before entering the woods, we had a big snack break in the shade, then set off again for the last hour of the walk. On the way, we met an adorable orvet, and then looked for a place to pitch our tent. I had hoped to find a stream with what I’d seen on Google maps, but unfortunately there was nothing. It’s a good thing we’d filled up in a stream beforehand, because water runs out very quickly in a bivouac, between evening and morning meals.

We like to stop our hiking days not too late so we can calmly set up our camp and simply enjoy being in nature. We found a quiet little spot at the edge of a field and like most of the time we dozed off for a bit especially since I hit a big slump that my partner helped me get through by making his magic potion an electrolyte drink . It was the first time we brought some and it was a great idea.
After our evening meal in a pine forest, we went to bed. A roe deer barked good night .

Summary of the day: more cows, the beautiful Aubrac plains, a slow worm, and a great bivouac. 5h40 of hiking (2h of breaks), 13 miles, 1,410 ft elevation gain / 882 ft descent.

Day 3 Les Salces – Banassac

The second night was a bit complicated, as we were awakened by music, no doubt from a fiesta at the little restaurant we came across before entering the woods, and my partner was also bothered by a clod of earth too large to fit under his mattress. By the time we had eaten and tidied up, we took off a little late at 8 a.m. and continued the previous day’s route through the woods. We enjoyed this shaded section, as the sun was already beating down, and we came across our first rabbit .

We had a goal for the day to reach Saint-Germain-du-Teil before noon to get supplies for our lunch since the convenience store closed at noon. Since we had a limited time to cover the 6.5 miles between us and our lunch stop, we took short breaks and I found myself running on empty just before arriving, especially with the heat, which would become our worst enemy on this trek! In the end, after a little mix-up just a few steps from the finish, which always makes things more fun!

We arrived twenty minutes before closing at the 8 à 8 where we saw the hiker from the day before. Originally we planned to do our shopping and leave right away but that was before we found the perfect spot for lunch . In fact, we had noticed in the middle of the village a beautiful picnic table in the shade of a lovely tree with, cherry on top, public toilets and fresh water. The temptation was too great simple joys on a trek !!

So we were able to raid the convenience store knowing we’d only have to carry our food a few meters! We enjoyed bread, ham, tabbouleh, fruit, and pastries! After that good meal, we set up our mattress in the grass, rested, and that’s how three hours went by! I have to say we also wanted to avoid leaving in the blazing sun (a good excuse ).

In the end we had to motivate ourselves to keep going because we still had about 5.6 miles to cover before the end of the day and this time it was at a campground. Needless to say the second part was really tough with the heat! We faced a pretty discouraging climb right after leaving Saint-Germain and then crossed some fields.

We had another happy moment when we came across water flowing right in the middle of the path. I was so hot that I lay down in it . We crossed a small hamlet then took a trail along a field where we had our last break under a tree.

Just afterwards, we came across a couple who were doing the Tour des Monts d’Aubrac trek and who were also staying at the campground. They had just come from there and told us we were almost there… Then, as we got tired, we couldn’t decide whether to follow the signs or the GPS track on our phone. We ended up walking along a rather dangerous secondary road in the heat of the day, not knowing if we’d be able to get to the campsite by that road. Typically the kind of moment on a trek when you wonder what you’re doing there and your nerves are put to the test! We finally arrived at the La Mothe campground in Banassac, exhausted but happy! We were able to pitch our tent on a lovely, spacious spot by the river. This campground was memorable for us because of its owners, the highlight being the swimming pool where they told us: “we’re not sure about the chlorine, but go ahead and if your hair turns orange, get out” !!! We’re still laughing about it today, but in the end we didn’t try the pool, as we were already pretty sunburnt , but we did enjoy our first shower!

It was also the chance for our first pleasant chats with the couple of hikers we met earlier as well as two friendly gentlemen who were crossing part of France but by bike. I really enjoy these kinds of encounters where we only talk about our experiences the special magic of these adventures and share tips about gear or other things. A beautiful way to end the day!

Summary of the day: a resupply, a dream lunch spot, a scorching sun, unforgettable campground hosts, and a shower. 5h30 of hiking (4h of breaks), 12.7 miles, 738 feet elevation gain / 6608 feet descent.

Day 4 Banassac – Champerboux

he start of the fourth day came after a good night’s sleep at least on my side because my hiking partner had a little problem with his mattress deflating in the middle of the night a valve left slightly open (we’re still trying to find the culprit ). Our morning goal was to be at the opening of the convenience store in La Canourgue two miles from Banassac. Once again we took a bit too long and left late. The section between the two villages isn’t the most pleasant since you follow the road the whole time. When we arrived in La Canourgue a very pretty village, a small disappointment the store was closed. Luckily after wandering for a few minutes we smelled some fresh pastries and found a bakery. After buying enough for a second breakfast and lunch we got back on the road.

Leaving the village a tough climb awaited us and it was definitely one of the hardest parts of this trek for me. Luckily there were lots of flowers along the trail to give me a boost. Sometimes it is hard to explain why some sections feel so difficult while others which are more demanding in theory go more smoothly. It is certainly a combination of several factors fatigue morale the weather and so on.

Then the trail became easier and we took a break in a pretty flower-filled clearing. That’s when three women passed by and we met our first fellow hikers on the Saint-Guilhem trail. After chatting a bit we realized we would be sleeping at the same place.

Then we continued calmly, alternating between trails and short stretches on small roads.

After lunch on a pretty stone table set in the woods, we started looking for water. We hadn’t seen any anywhere until then.

We were pinning all our hopes on the hamlet of Gazy but found nothing. With no other choice, we decided to knock on a house door to ask for water. It’s important to know that we are quite flexible when it comes to water because we have filtered bottles that allow us to refill from streams, rivers, and so on. But on this GR trail it is indeed sometimes difficult to find water especially for hikers who need water that is directly drinkable.

After refilling we hit the road again. We ran into our three fellow hikers several times, discovered our first beautiful “angel’s hair” plants and mostly played with the sun. The sun was beating down so hard that on one stretch of road we stopped at every little patch of tree shade about every 330 feet !

About 2.5 miles from the finish we took a long break in the forest lying right on the path surrounded by beautiful flowers and friendly butterflies that fell in love with my boyfriend !

Our three fellow hikers passed us at that moment, telling us they had thought from afar that we were a dead animal and a bird . We never figured out which one of us was the dead animal ! As often happens, the last miles were really tough and we arrived at the hostel completely wiped out.

The hikers were already there and Sophie, the owner of the hostel, showed us our room. Luckily we didn’t have to share it. We would have been embarrassed if other people had arrived, given the smell coming from all our stuff !

We were super happy about this first night on solid ground, to be able to wash up, sleep in a bed and not have to set up the tent. We enjoyed the kitchen and the products Sophie provided, including some good honey. We did some laundry, played Connect Four, watched a beautiful sunset and had dinner with our fellow hikers. We learned they were old school friends and that every year they go on a trek together while their biker husbands go on a motorcycle trip!

Summary of the day: a brutal climb, flowers, dolmens, blazing sun, three fellow hikers, a beautiful sunset, a night in a guesthouse. 6h30 of hiking (2h30 of breaks), 15.5 miles, 2,257 feet elevation gain / 919 feet descent.

Day 5 Champerboux – Hures

After a good night’s sleep in a real bed and a great breakfast with Sophie’s homemade bread and jam, we set off valiantly… but that wasn’t counting on forgetting my sunglasses ! Fortunately, I realized it after a 5-minute walk and my darling was kind enough to go back and get them.

After this false start, we set off downhill for 4,7 miles to the magnificent village of Saint-Enimie. We spent the next 2 hours overtaking our co-randonneurs all the way to the village.

The last descent is made with a beautiful view of the village, before arriving in its pretty streets. We realized how lucky we were to be able to visit this beautiful village virtually on our own.

We made a little stop in the church to perform my ritual, which is to light a candle for my “sky” grandma in every place I travel. I love the idea of a light shining for her all over the world, and it’s also a way of taking her with me wherever I go .

We took advantage of the village to stock up on supplies (pastries, pizzas, quiches, chips and fruit) and take our morning break, our feet in the water of the Lot.

At 10 a.m., we set off again and had to climb everything we’d come down with (1,804 feet of elevation gain over 3.7 miles), but as the climb was mostly in the forest, and therefore protected from the sun, we didn’t suffer particularly. In fact, it was on this day that we started getting up very early, before 6 a.m., to try and get some respite from the heat !

We passed through some magnificent landscapes, all the more so with angel hair! I’ve developed a real passion for these flowers, and had no idea that this was a foretaste of the immense silver fields we were to see the next day on the Causse Méjean!

We took two breaks, including one at 4:30 p.m. lying on the path beside an unfortunate puddle in the woods, playing hide-and-seek with the sun! ! My tendonitis (from my trek on the Itinérêve) was starting to flare up, which was stressing me out a bit, and my darling discovered that the cause of his foot pain was a little anti-theft device hidden under the insole of his shoe – always check it from now on! !

After this break we still had 4,4 miles to go, aiming for the woods after the Buffre to find a bivouac, and before that we had to cross the village of Mas de Val.

It was in this village that we experienced one of our greatest joys of the trek. We hadn’t found any water since Saint Enimie and were beginning to worry. Arriving in this tiny “deserted” village, we miraculously came across a magnificent slate sign with a hand-painted map indicating, among other things, a watering place. We took a closer look at the map and realized that the fountain was right behind us, a moment of pure euphoria the likes of which you can only experience on a trek !

As an added bonus, a picnic table was signposted a few yards away, so we were only too happy to find a good place to rest and decided to change our habits and dine here. So we prepared our own freeze-dried meals, which we enjoyed in a state of total bliss. Many thanks again to the village of Mas de Val for this little gesture that changes everything when you’re walking! We had about 1,9 miles to go, and it was at 8pm that we set off again.

We particularly enjoyed this last hour walking in the calm and cool of the end of the day. It’s my favorite time of day to hike at home, because you can feel time slowing down, everything is calmer, the animals are coming out and there’s this beautiful light with such a special atmosphere. We passed through a pretty forest, a small village already asleep, came across a deer, admired pretty colorful fields and arrived in the woods where we wanted to pitch our tent.

We passed by a lavogne, then the trail climbed steeply into the forest and we realized that it was going to be very difficult to find a flat area.

After an exhausting search, especially for my energetic co-randonneur, we finally found a little spot in the forest below the path, where we could pitch our tent.

Summary of the day: a beautiful village, stunning landscapes, intense heat, a miraculous fountain, an evening hike, a deer, and a final wild camp. 7h30 of hiking (6h of breaks), 15.8 miles, 2,444 feet elevation gain / 2,477 feet descent.

D6 Hures – Meyrueis

As on the previous day, we woke up very early: we had to cross the Causse Méjean and we knew that shade would be scarce. What’s more, it was our long-awaited “rest day” at the hotel, which meant we’d be more than halfway there!! So we started by finishing the previous day’s climb in the woods, and could see that we couldn’t have found a better place to bivouac higher up.

Leaving the woods, we began a descent across the fields to the village of Hures, bathed in the golden light of sunrise.

Future hikers beware: we didn’t find the fountain in Hures, but later learned that there was one next to a house in the village. This is also where you can make a detour to see the wild Przewalski horses. On our way out of the village, we came across a shepherd taking his flock of sheep out, and after cuddling his adorable dog, we realized that the sheep also wanted to be petted , a nice way to start the day. .

We continued on to the village of Drigas, where we were able to refuel at a fountain, and then arrived at what I’d been looking forward to most since the start of the trek, the Causse Méjéan.

Suffice to say, I wasn’t disappointed. I was dazzled by the beauty of the landscape, rolling expanses as far as the eye could see, covered with fields of angel hair, a real sight for sore eyes!

We crossed this landscape, alone in the world, for 5 km and after a short break to enjoy it and observe the vultures, we left the Causse for the last few miles towards Meyrueis.

The rest of the trail was just as beautiful, as we hiked upwards with a fine view of Meyrueis below. This morning was once again rich in wild flowers and orchids, much to my delight (see article on Wild Orchids).

Now we had to start the steep descent to the village. During a break in the descent, we came across 2 new hikers from Saint-Guilhem, who caught our attention because one of them had one of her shoes wrapped in plaster. A few days later, we exchanged with her and learned the story of her shoes ! We hadn’t come across any hikers since our 3 fellow hikers in Sainte Enimie the day before. These encounters are important to us because they’re rare, which we appreciate, as they allow us to chat while remaining in our own bubble for the rest of the time.

As usual, it was the last few miles that made us suffer. The sun was beating down hard, and we had “only” 1 mile to go when we saw a Meyrueis 2,2 miles sign. A disaster for our morale, until we realized that it was if we followed the road, the GR taking us via a shortcut. But what a shortcut, a narrow, very steep and uneven path where you have to be vigilant to avoid a sprain. And then, finally, the Holy Grail ! We arrived in Meyrueis just before noon.

With enormous satisfaction, we found a nice riverside restaurant on the terrace and had a good burger and a succulent chocolate mousse for dessert. Just as we were sitting down to dinner, we saw the three hikers who had shared the gite with us arrive, completely exhausted and annoyed. They’d made a mistake which had lengthened their journey and, above all, they still had 7,5 miles to go to finish the day’s stage. They got ahead of us that day and we never saw them again. After lunch, we went straight to the hotel and checked into our super-large room. We took advantage of the bath, did a bit of laundry, had a little nap and headed back to the center of town to do some shopping for the days ahead and, above all, go to the chemist!

Indeed, we were looking forward to Meyrueis to buy sun cream and moisturizer, as the sun had burnt our necks and faces. We also restocked our ibuprofen supply for my tendinitis. I’ll put the contents of our first-aid kit in Practical Info. After that, we went for a nice ice-cream in the restaurant at lunchtime, which we enjoyed with our feet in the water, and then returned to the hotel to enjoy the pool – a real treat !! We ended the day at the same restaurant (three times in one day, a record broken ) and devoured some great pizzas! Food is a subject that comes up a lot, and I’ve noticed that when we tell our stories, we go into unusual detail about everything we buy and eat, the reason being simple: on a trek, you’re hungry, very hungry, all the time !!

Summary of the day: cuddly sheep, the stunning landscapes of the Causse Méjean, a short stage, first restaurant, a hotel, a pool, first ice cream, and some moisturizer .
4h30 of hiking (2h30 of breaks), 9.3 miles, 738 feet elevation gain / 1,755 feet descent.

D7 Meyrueis – Espérou

Waking up after a great night, breakfast wasn’t served until 8am, so we had breakfast in our room with the products we’d bought the day before, and set off a little before 7am. We knew that the day would start with a steep climb, which I was dreading. Against all expectations, I didn’t suffer that much, as the climb was very gradual and through the forest.

We passed the two plaster hikers several times and then crossed the border between Lozère and Gard.
After that, we continued walking through a pine forest and took another morning break at the top, at the level of the planted stone.

After the break, we had 4 miles to go to the lake Bonheur (happiness lake), where we hoped to take our big lunch break. We set off again and just after we saw a sign for Camprieu, decided to follow this path (GR66A on the map) and then saw that we’d left the Chemin de Saint-Guilhem. This was a really great mistake , as we continued to walk along the ridge with great views and avoided a steep descent.

And then, as we reached the first houses, we were delighted to see another sign reading “Bonheur lake 2,9 feet”! Naturally , we opted for this little path, which saved us 1 mile and a stretch of road. We soon arrived at the lake, which couldn’t have been more aptly named!

We spotted a small picnic table tucked away under the trees at the water’s edge, an idyllic spot for our lunch. We didn’t have much food left, so we were still very hungry by the end of the meal, and I started to get a headache. During our break (which lasted 5 h ), we took a little nap, had a little dip in the lake and took the opportunity to check the weather forecast again, which confirmed a risk of thunderstorms for the night. We don’t like sleeping in tents when it’s stormy, so I looked for accommodation at l’Espérou, but without success.

We set off again for the last 4,4 miles, keeping to our original plan of the Espérou municipal campground, and telling ourselves we’d see when we got there. We passed through the pretty Vallée du Bonheur (valley of happiness), and were warned at the farm to beware of the dog Milou. We were lucky not to run into him, but we’d learn later that he’d scared other hikers.

After the valley, we started a steep climb through the woods to reach the Col de la Serreyrède, which was a real struggle, especially as my head was still very sore.

At the top, we got a nice reward when we saw, out of nowhere, a producer’s store. We rushed inside and bought crackers, sausage, madeleines and sat directly on the picnic table in front of the store to have a big snack ! Which actually cured my headache! From there, all we had to do was the notoriously difficult last few kilometers to the Espérou campground.

We loved this huge, almost deserted campground in the middle of nowhere. Thanks to our treks, we’ve developed a real passion for municipal campgrounds ! The manager, a young and very cool guy, came by in the evening to make the payment, and then disaster struck: the stove gave out on us – no more gas in the bottle! We rehydrated our freeze-dried food with hot tap water, waiting to see if we could find a bottle the next day in the only “big” town on the trek.

We went to bed not reassured by the weather forecast, which didn’t stop my darling from falling like a lump ! As for me, I kept an eye on the rising storm and when the lightning became more violent, I woke him up in a panic so that we could go and sleep in the bathroom . At the time, he wasn’t too happy to get up, but he kindly followed me and gave me the greatest gift of all, when he found me a small room with a lock, just big enough to put our two mattresses between the toilet and the shower! This allowed us to have a “little room” all to ourselves, sheltered from the storm, what happiness! After waiting a while for the lights to go out – all we had to do was press a button - we fell asleep, lulled by the torrential rain.

Summary of the day: a new department, a lake of happiness, an empty gas bottle and a night in a toilet. 5h30 of hiking (7h of breaks), 13.7 miles, 2,618 feet elevation gain / 886 feet descent.

D8 Espérou – Avèze

We woke up very early, when the first people turned on the bathroom lights. Despite a difficult night, with a few aches and pains due to the hard ground, we were very happy to be able to get ready under cover of the rain, which was still falling hard. This day was to be typical of the unexpected on a trek ! After eating breakfast in our toilet , we made the difficult decision of taking the bus straight down to Le Vigan. We hesitated a lot, disappointed to be skipping a big part of the stage, but we made this choice for several reasons. First of all, it was a stage with a reputation for difficulty, due to its steep negative gradient, and having weak knees on the descents, I was dreading it! What’s more, it was still raining, we hadn’t slept much and above all we needed time (and energy) to look for a bottle of gas in town. With some hesitation, we headed into the village to wait for the bus.

So tired, we fell asleep quickly and 1 hour later we were in Le Vigan. It was the first “big” town we’d been in for days, the cars, the crowds – in short, a difficult and unpleasant change. We tried a few stores for our gas bottle without success. As we still had 4 days to go without a stove, and mini-markets were going to be scarce, I went shopping to get something to eat for the coming evenings, always with the weight constraint. We decided to eat in a restaurant at lunchtime, but it wasn’t a very pleasant experience; we didn’t feel at all at ease in this town and quickly fled as soon as the meal was over.

Fortunately, the road soon took us back to a very pretty path running alongside the Arre river. With plenty of time to make the 1;9 miles to Avèze (our stage finish), we took several breaks by the water to dry out the tent.

We passed some pretty waterfalls, found a very encouraging signpost and soon arrived in Avèze.

There we found that the municipal campground was indeed, as I’d feared, closed to tents. Which is a pity, because it’s in a good position… Once again, we were reluctant to continue on to the Montardier campground, but it was 4,3 miles away, with a very steep climb, so we decided to stop there, even though we felt our bodies were running out of miles . So we opted for the only option: a nice inn, where we could still sleep in a good bed!

In the evening, we went for dinner at the guinguette we spotted on our way into Avèze, and had a great time! It’s an open-air restaurant, decorated with string lights. We ate very well (sausages/fries and crêpes for dessert), enjoyed a concert by the Absurd Heroes, thought we saw Mr Etchebest (for me it was a look-alike and for my darling it was 100% him, the mystery remains ) and above all, we celebrated our 93 miles!

Summary of the day: a bus ride, a stifling city, a great riverside bar, a concert, and a hostel. 1h30 of hiking, 3.7 miles.

D9 Avèze – Blandas

In the morning, the weather forecast was overcast, so we set off a little later and enjoyed the hostel’s excellent breakfast. At 8:30 am, we set off to tackle the famous climb, described by many as the hardest of the trek (1,312 feet of elevation gain over 1.2 miles).

In the end, it went well, no doubt because we’d prepared for it mentally and, above all, because it wasn’t too hot, thanks to the clouds!

It was at the top, while we were busy observing a caterpillar and dozens of “empty” insects, that we bumped into the two plaster-wearing hikers.

We chatted to them for the first time, two very nice ladies also doing the Saint-Guilhem, and the one with the plaster then explained that she was so happy with her shoes that she didn’t want to change them, hence the plaster to hold the sole, and she showed us her second shoe, the sole of which was hanging on by a thread too ! She also told us they’d probably turn them into flowerpots by the end of the trek. , I thought that was a great idea! They left again, and we went back to observing our “insects”, and after some research we realized that they were the molts left by the cicadas after they’d hatched! It has to be said that we don’t see many cicadas in Charente .

After 4,3 miles, we arrived in Montardier, filled up with water and my darling did some shopping at the mini-market and surprised me by bringing me back a snickers bar, some chocolate, happiness !! After that, we had another 9,3 miles to the Cirque de Navacelles, including 6,5 miles to the village of Blandas.

At the Planas dolmen, you can save 1,2 miles by taking the road straight on to the village, but we preferred to follow the GR.

It’s a good thing it was overcast, otherwise we’d have really struggled without shade! At the end of the slope, before turning off onto a path, we stopped by the roadside for a picnic. The two ladies reappeared at this point, but accompanied by an adorable doggie that I got to drink. They explained that it was a dog that had been following the hikers from Le Vigan, had started out following another group and then switched to them. I was worried about whether he’d find his family again, a matter to be followed …

We resumed on a path that took us through some beautiful countryside, including our first lavender fields, as the Mediterranean drew closer !

We were also dazzled by a magnificent field of poppies!

After these 1,9 miles, we arrived in Blandas, and decided to take a nice break, when we saw a nice shady spot with tables and a fountain. It was here that we made a last-minute change!

A group of three very nice hikers arrived and asked us where the campground was, then a few minutes later another hiker arrived and asked us the same question. That’s when we were tempted to stop our day’s hike and take advantage of this campground too ! The day before, I’d found a place to stay in Navacelles, but we weren’t keen on the idea of sleeping rough for our last few days of the trek. Even though we were going to have to do a big stage the next day, adding the remaining 2,8 miles, we stopped at the Blandas campground.

We met up with all the hikers we’d seen before, all doing the Saint-Guilhem. We also met a lone gentleman who was doing it the other way round. He’d “only” been out for two days, and we talked about where to sleep, the difficulties involved and, above all, where to find water. It was also thanks to him that we decided to take the other route to finish the trek. In fact, at the end of the Saint-Guilhem, there is a choice of 2 trails (see Before the trek). I’d chosen the one via Mas Aubert, but looking at the terrain we were beginning to doubt we’d find a bivouac area. He had just passed through La Vacquerie, and when he told us about the municipal campsite, we immediately changed our plans ! Having made the mistake of not photographing the part of the book concerning this section, I contacted my little sister who sent me the necessary photos!

As we’d stopped our day early and done “only” 10,6 miles, we decided to go and check out the viewpoints over the Cirque de Navacelles, even though we were going to spend the next day there. We figured that without our bags, we’d get a lot more out of it, and we did. So we resumed walking for just over 1,2 miles, but without the bags it felt like flying . We discovered the sublime view of the Cirque de Navacelles, completely on our own, as the large parking lots were completely empty! We were able to make the most of it, taking our time and seeing all the sights, which we certainly wouldn’t have done the next day.

Back at the campsite, with the lack of a stove and hearty food in sight, we booked a table at the only restaurant in the area. We had another great evening, the restaurant was very cute and run by lovely people, we ate very well, drank a little (a good homemade punch and a beer) and had a good laugh !

Summary of the day: dozens of cicada shells, a dog, seven hikers, an improvised campsite, a short hike without backpacks, discovering the magnificent Cirque de Navacelles, and a great restaurant. 5h30 of hiking (3h of breaks), 13.7 miles, 2,093 feet elevation gain / 906 feet descent.

D10 Blandas – La Vacquerie

We got up very early at 4 a.m., in view of the long day’s walking ahead of us (over 15.5 miles) and the forecast heat wave. We quickly arrived at the viewpoint from the day before, and were extremely lucky to see the cirque under a rainbow !

We wasted a little time enjoying the show, and started the unpleasant, steep 1,2 miles descent to the village.

We entered the village, still asleep, and paused to refresh our feet in the river Vis.

We were still very lucky to discover this touristy village on our own.

We quickly got back on the road to tackle the day’s challenge, before the sun got too high. To reach the village of Sant-Maurice-Navacelles, 6,3 miles further on, we first skirted the Vis gorges on a narrow, tiring path, then had a little respite when we came to a wide path alongside the aqueduct, which allowed us to take a break.

Unfortunately, this was short-lived and we tackled the steep hairpin climb out of the gorge.

This was a tough one, as the sun was beating down and we arrived in the village quite tired. Strangely enough, despite the beautiful views over the gorge, we found this stretch rather strenuous, perhaps because of the fatigue.

After taking a break and refueling at the village fountain, we were about to set off again, when I had the good idea of exploring the village and…surprise, an open-air snack bar was open (note that it was a Sunday)! We jumped at the chance, as hunger grew with each passing day, and without a stove we naturally began to take advantage of all the places to eat.

In the little snack bar, we bumped into the lady who was looking for the campground and offered to share our table. We were impressed by this little granny, who was making her way to Saint-Guilhem alone in a tent, also making wild bivouacs, and who seemed to be struggling a lot less than we were ! After an excellent meal of sausages and French fries, she set off again, and we extended our break a little (a lot ) by enjoying an ice cream sitting under a tree, in the company of a cute bunny.

Despite the high temperature, we had to set off again for the 6,2 miles to La Vacquerie. A much easier section than the morning’s, with no major changes in altitude and beautiful scenery.

I had already been amazed for several days by the abundance of butterflies, but that day we experienced a magnificent moment, when we found ourselves walking surrounded by hundreds of them .

The last 2,5 miles, on a very easy path: flat, wide and shaded, were a real nightmare for me! My feet were hurting more and more, and above all I had no energy left at all, as if I were literally drained! So it was in a bad way that we reached the village and collapsed in the campground . A perfect campground for us, set in a large meadow and self-contained. In fact, all we had to do to pay was drop the money in the Town Hall letterbox. We didn’t have enough cash, so we sent them a check when we got back .

We were both exhausted, and we knew we didn’t have much to eat, which didn’t help our morale! It was at this point that another trekking miracle took place . Just a few meters further on, we discovered a lovely little restaurant in the woods just behind the campsite, which was already fully booked, but agreed to take us on. We were more than surprised to find a restaurant open on a Sunday evening in a tiny village just a stone’s throw from the campsite. The mood changed radically and we were delighted to enjoy their delicious toast! It was with nostalgia that we went to bed for our last night in a tent, knowing that tomorrow this incredible adventure would come to an end .

Summary of the day: a rainbow, a steep climb, two restaurants, hundreds of butterflies, a tough end to the day, and a last night in a tent. 7 hours 30 minutes of hiking (4 hours 30 minutes of breaks), 15.8 miles, 2,047 feet elevation gain / 2,156 feet descent.

D11 (END) La Vacquerie – Saint-Guilhem-Le-Désert

Early wake-up call, frugal breakfast to the sound of wild boars having breakfast too ! Departure at 6 a.m. for our very last stage, sniff. First objective of the day, to reach Mont Saint-Baudille, 6,2 miles away, before the sun gets too hot.

We started with a short climb up a lovely path through the lavender fields in the light of the sunrise. It was a day of smells, starting in the morning with the incredible scent of honey coming from the linden trees in bloom, followed by lavender and thyme for the rest of the day – a real treat!

Then we arrived in a whole new, more Mediterranean landscape and even found ourselves walking on sand in a magnificent pine forest.

By 9 a.m., we were at the bottom of Mont Saint-Baudille, where we took a break and a bite to eat before starting the climb.

As my tendinitis was becoming more and more painful, we had to do what we had done on the Dordogne trek and swap shoes. It’s a relief for me, but difficult for my partner who has slightly larger feet, especially as my shoes were much less flexible this time!

After a steep climb of around 1,2 miles, we reached the summit in a magnificent Mediterranean scrub landscape with incredible views and the song of the cicadas! You can even see the Mediterranean from here!

Still hungry, we took another food break , then began the long 2,4 miles descent. First on a rugged path, then on a wider trail, always with spectacular views, especially of the Pic Saint-Loup.

The sun was beating down hard, but we were able to enjoy the shade of the holm oaks. When we reached the road, we had to walk 1 mile with difficulty, under a scorching sun and without any shade.

Then we took advantage of the path through the national forest of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (the end was drawing nearer, yippee) to take a final break, where we devoured all the edibles we had left, which was not much left at all !

We set off again for our last three miles, which were just magnificent. The path was quite shady and we climbed to the pass overlooking the magnificent Infernet cirque, with the village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert below.

After that, all we had to do was descend to the village along the majestic Fenestrettes trail. For this last, truly breathtaking section alone, we were glad we’d chosen this route to end our trek in style.

We let our joy explode when we came across a sign reading “Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert 1 mile”. I took off my shoes at that point, so that my darling could enjoy his arrival with his feet free ! We returned to the village exhausted, but so happy!

The first thing we did was to buy ourselves something to celebrate our arrival, pain au chocolat and cold drinks, then we headed straight to our guesthouse for the evening to take an ice-cold shower, eat our snack and take a little nap, real happiness .

We went out again in the evening, the heat being really stifling, and found a store with some souvenirs for the Saint-Guilhem hikers, ate an ice-cream and above all discovered this magnificent village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. In fact, it was in the church that we met up with our little granny, who had also just finished!

In the evening, we celebrated our journey in a crêperie in the main square, at the foot of the King of the Plane Trees, a splendid tree planted in 1855!

As we set off, we bumped into the group of hikers we’d met in Blandas, and we all debriefed together about the trek, our favorite landscapes, the weight of our packs, etc. That’s also how we got news of the other hikers, how we found out that the dog following the ladies had been reunited with its family and many other anecdotes! We felt very close, even though we knew nothing about each other, but connected by the magic of the trek! It was a lovely moment, and a fitting end to this fabulous adventure!

Summary of the day: the scents of the south, stifling heat, cicadas, a spectacular end to the stage, the village of Saint-Guilhem, and a completed trek. 7 hours of hiking (2 hours 30 minutes of breaks), 15.5 miles, 1,740 feet elevation gain / 3,435 feet descent.

How was the trek?

143 miles, 62 hours of hiking, 18,163 feet elevation gain / 18,083 feet descent, and 4 French departments crossed.

It was a truly wonderful trek, for me the best yet! I loved the variety and beauty of the landscapes, the multitude of flowers, the people I met and the magnificent villages! It was truly magical to start out in the green expanses of Aubrac surrounded by cows and end up in the Mediterranean scrub amidst the cicadas! In terms of difficulty, as you’ll have gathered, it was mainly the heat and lack of water on certain sections that forced us to overload with water.

We haven’t done many “wild” bivouacs either, which we like very much, but the terrain is indeed not often suitable, water is scarce and above all we don’t feel comfortable pitching the tent when we’re not sure we’re allowed to. For the first time, I slept quite well in the tent, and the only advantage of the heat was that we had pleasant nights without having to wrap ourselves in down ! On the health front, my tendinitis flared up and I got my usual blisters . My darling’s feet were quite sore and we burned quite badly for the first few days. On the other hand, our backs and shoulders didn’t really suffer, apart from the “normal” discomfort of carrying a big bag. Food-wise, I think we were a bit short of calories on some days, but on the whole, apart from the incident with the gas bottle, we were happy with the food we took with us and especially with our energy drinks, which really helped. In any case, with every trek, we learn something and improve for the next one!

The return journey was really difficult, as your body gets used to walking so much and you feel a great lack of it for the first few days. But there’s something even harder to miss: the unique feeling of well-being you get on a trek (probably amplified by the dose of endorphins secreted during the effort ). On a trek, all our energy is focused on the essentials: walking, eating, drinking and sleeping. Everything else becomes secondary, and the brain is emptied of thoughts. Barriers come down, shyness disappears, and we realize how much we’re changing – or rather, how much we’re simply becoming ourselves ! We don’t worry about how others look at us, we wash in our underwear in streams, we spread our clothes everywhere, we go into stores badly dressed and not really fresh, and we don’t mind at all !

Practical information

EQUIPMENT

Clothing, bivouac gear, first-aid kit… this is our equipment for this trek. We used almost everything we’d packed, with the fortunate exception of the contents of our emergency kit.

Clothing:

• Waterproof parka
• Waterproof pants
• Warm merino jacket
• 3 merino T-shirts (two for the day and one for the night)
• 2 pairs of pants (one for hiking and one for the night)
• Short
• 3 pairs of socks (two for the day and one for the night)
• 3 panties (two for the day and one for the night)
• 2 bras
• Pair of merino gloves
• Neckband
• Swimsuit
• Cap
• Walking shoes
• Tap shoes

Equipment:

• Backpack + waterproof bag cover
• Walking poles
• Tent
• Sleeping bag
• Pillow
• Headlamp
• Microfiber towel
• Small waterproof bag
• External battery
• Camel bag
• Filtered water bottle
• Stove + saucepan + lighter
• Knife + spoon
  
  

First-aid and emergency kit:

• Medication (paracetamol, ibuprofen, antispasmodic, antibiotics and corticoids)
• Small tubes of creams (burn cream and anti-inflammatory)
• Micropur tablets
• Mosquito repellent
• Sterile saline solution
• Disinfectant
• Tweezers
• Scissors
• Dressings
• Ahesive strips and strapping
• Survival blanket
• Tourniquet

Hygiene:

• Toothbrush + toothpaste
• Deodorant
• Biodegradable soap
• Individual wipes
• Moisturizing cream sample
• Microfiber glove
• Cotton buds
• Pocket mirror
• Pampers
• Toilet paper
• Earplugs
• Handkerchief

Miscellaneous:

• Repair kit: thread, needle, safety pin, cord
• Sunglasses
• Garbage bags (one large and two small)
• Cards (identity, bank, etc.), cash
• Pen
• Phone
• Appareil photo et accessoires
• Small card game

FOOD

We left with food for 3 breakfasts, 3 lunches and 8 dinners (freeze-dried food being impossible to find in mini-markets). We each had around 3.5 kg of food at the start.

Morning:

• BelVita-type cakes
• Freeze-dried scrambled eggs or freeze-dried compotes (purchased from Lyophilise & Co)
• Tea
• Real On The Go peach energy drink (also bought on Lyophilise & Co). We love the taste, and it’s easy to prepare.

Lunchtime:

• Grain bread, stored in an airtight bag.
• Hard cheese
• Sausage
• Chips

Breaks:

• Seed packets and dried fruit. We each make our own mix with what we prefer, and it’s clearly what we enjoy eating most during breaks.
• Cereal bars or Ovaltine bars
• Peach energy drink or electrolyte drink

Evening:

• Freeze-dried dishes (purchased from Lyophilise & Co). MX3, Real Turmat and Adventure Menu are the most popular brands. We were pleasantly surprised by the quality: it’s simple to prepare, tasty, very high in calories, and above all very light to carry (around 150 g per bag). We prefer the pasta-based ones.
  The only problem is the price (around €10 per sachet), and you have to be careful: some dishes are really spicy .
• Freeze-dried desserts: on every trek, I take a single bag (weight obliges, sniff ) of freeze-dried chocolate mousse, our little gourmet tradition. We love the Trek’n Eat brand!
  
  

ACCOMMODATION

1st night: Wild bivouac.

2nd night: Wild bivouac.

3rd night: Campground of La Mothe in Banassac-Canilhac
→ Very large campsite, outdated sanitary facilities but perfect for an overnight hike. Free parking. 12 € (payment in cash only, no credit cards)

4th night: Hostel Les Dolmens in Champerboux
→ Hostel for hikers with shared kitchen and communal rooms.
Very warm welcome from Sophie, the owner. Large common room with everything you need, nickel bedroom, and a large garden to relax in. 20 per person (breakfast: €8 per person)

5th night: Wild bivouac.

6th night: Logis Le Mont Aigoual Hotel in Meyrueis
→ Great hotel with large room and pool! Breakfast available. 95 € per night (without breakfast)

7th night: Municipal campground of l’Espérou
→ Very large campsite, self-guided arrival and free placement. 13 € (payment only in cash, no credit card)

8th night: Hostel Cocagne in Avèze
→ Charming inn with very spacious room and excellent breakfast. €72 per night (breakfast: €8.50 per person)

9th night: Campground Le Crom in Blandas
→ Very clean little campsite, pitches a little small but with table. 24 € for two people

10th night: Municipal campground of La-Vacquerie-et-Saint-Martin-de-Castries
→ Camping in a meadow with rudimentary sanitary facilities. Self-catering and free placement. 12 € for two (payment to be deposited in the town hall letterbox)

11th night: Guesthouse of la Tour in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert
→ Nice hostel with large bedroom, self-catering and good breakfast. 85 € per night (breakfast: 10 € per person)

PARKING AND SHUTTLE

We arrived in Aumont-Aubrac by car, and it is possible to leave it free of charge for the duration of the hike in the SNCF station parking lot, which is what we did.
For the return to the car, we opted for the Malle Postale service. This transport service is designed for both hikers and luggage, for those who prefer to travel light. I made the reservation two days before the end of the trek, and they picked us up in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert the day after our arrival, at 10:30 am. We arrived quietly three hours later in Aumont-Aubrac.
Price: 116 euros for two.

Many thanks to Chemin de Saint-Guilhem for this incredible adventure !

The post The Saint-Guilhem Trek: 143 Miles Through Southern France first appeared on NaturElfes.

This autumn we wanted to get away from it all, without really having any ideas of where to go, I just really wanted to see the beautiful autumn colors again. While searching on the internet, I came across some magnificent autumn-colored Swiss landscapes. It’s a country I discovered in 2021 on a road-trip in a van and loved, and as my partner is a real fan of the country, it was perfect timing!

What’s more, their interactive map indicated that the best time to see the colors was late October-early November, which suited our availability. So we set off from October 27 to 31, 2024 for a mini road-trip, spending 2 nights in Spiez (canton of Bern) and then 2 nights in the village of Les Haudères (canton of Valais).

Map of locations visited

Jogne gorges

Thanks to BestJobers I’d spotted this place, and as it was on the road between the airport and Spiez, we started our road-trip there and didn’t regret our first stop.

We loved this hike, the autumn colors were really there, and the mix with the color of the river was just magnificent, reminding us a lot of Urederra in Spain.

In addition to the scenery, the hike is rather fun, as you pass through tunnels and over bridges, and there’s no real difficulty, apart from a few slippery spots and the last, short but slightly steep climb.

At the top, there’s a lovely view of the lake, so we went to the dam to get a better view. There are also picnic tables here, and a restaurant further up the small road.

For those who wish the hike can be extended, we turned around and came back the same way, so we could enjoy again the landscape and the beautiful waterfall, my favorite.

This seems to be quite a busy place, so I recommend weekdays for a quieter experience. To make the most of the scenery, it’s best not to set off too late in the afternoon, as in autumn the sun sets early and with the relief, the light quickly disappears.
Total: 2.5 hours, 2.2 miles, altitude difference 754ft+ / 820ft-.

When we got back on the road, we were treated to a very nice surprise! I shouted “chamois”, but my darling wasn’t really convinced . We stopped to check if they were just goats ;), and there was a whole herd of chamois going about their quiet lives. Another wonderful gift from Nature!

Spiez

I had booked two nights in this village (see Practical information below) so that I could explore the surrounding area at my leisure. We had originally dreamed of staying in another nearby village, Iseltwald, which had been a real favorite during our road-trip in 2021, but it has apparently become a victim of its own success (linked to a TV series) and overrun with tourists.

In the end, it was a good thing, because it allowed us to discover Spiez, and we loved it just as much. It’s a very peaceful village with a real gentle way of life, a feeling that comes up quite often in Switzerland!

During our short stay, we enjoyed the beauty of the lake, especially at sunrise and sunset. In fact, there’s a hike along it to the next village, but we didn’t have time to do it all.

On the other hand, we did go on a wonderful hike in the village, which allowed us to see the magnificent castle, the church and then to climb the vineyards and have a magnificent view of Spiez, the lake and its mountains.

I must say, I didn’t expect to enjoy this little tour so much. We were truly dazzled by the landscape. Above all, it was the color palette that added to the charm, between the yellow of the vines, the blue of the lake, the orange of the trees, in short, a veritable explosion of color. Add to that the light at the end of the day, and it was a photographer’s and painter’s paradise !
Total: 3.2 miles, 1.5 hours, altitude difference 360ft+ / 394ft-.

I found Spiez to be a really good choice for a place to stay, because in addition to the beauty of the village, there are plenty of opportunities for sightseeing in the surrounding area. Apart from what we did (Blausee and Oeschinensee), there’s also the beautiful Beatus Caves on the other side of the lake, which we visited in 2021. You can also take the ferry to visit other villages. I’d also spotted a number of other hikes that sounded wonderful, but I had to make a choice, so there really is plenty to do if you stay in this area for several days.

Blausee

On the second day of the road-trip, I had planned to visit the famous Blausee Lake, another victim of its “Instagrammable” photo success. I hesitated a lot when I saw the comments, but at the same time I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the lake.

We were only a 20-minute drive from the hotel, so we went when it opened. There were very few people in the parking lot, which reassured me a little, so we were able to enjoy it and take a leisurely tour.

The lake was still in shadow at the time, so we decided to wait for the sun to shine a little brighter.
Unfortunately, an hour after our arrival, two buses arrived and unloaded a horde of tourists. The place immediately turned into a real selfie and photo-shoot zone (poses, outfits, etc. ).

I’d read a lot of comments saying that it was too expensive for what it is, as the tour of the lake is very quick. I don’t really agree with this point of view, it’s true that the tour is quick but it’s pleasant, because it allows you to do it several times. There’s also a little hike you can do further up in the forest. The lake is indeed breathtaking. The color of the water is exceptional, and the fish can be seen with incredible clarity.

In autumn, it’s really sumptuous, and I loved the statue at the bottom of the lake! The big negative point for us is that it’s lost its “wild” side, in the sense that it’s too developed around it, so you feel less in nature. Another complicating factor for us was the behavior of some tourists, who really detract from the charm of this beautiful place.

We then set off to discover another marvel, the Oeschinensee lake, just a 10-minute drive from Blausee.

Oeschinensee

There are two options for accessing the lake, either on foot or by gondola. As we wanted to enjoy the lake and hike to the top, we took the gondola. It’s rather expensive, CHF 30 per person round-trip, but in less than 10 minutes we were at the top.

It then takes 20-30 minutes to reach the lake. We followed the forest path down to the lake, and there was the possibility of taking a shuttle bus, but I don’t know how it works, or how much it costs. We didn’t find the descent along this path very pleasant, and on the way back we found another, prettier and wilder path that also led to the lake. For those wishing to take it on the outward journey, just turn left at a fork with various signs.

Once we got to the lake, our eyes were filled with the blue of the water and the majestic mountains in the background! It’s also quite a busy place, but that didn’t bother us too much.

I’d seen that there was a panoramic tour that offered magnificent views of the lake from a great height. As we didn’t necessarily have the time to do the whole tour, and I’d also read that there were some vertiginous passages, we only did a small part of it. The higher we climbed, the more sublime the scenery, and that’s how we ended up climbing all the way to the hut. I’d definitely recommend climbing just a little to see the lake in a different light.

On the way back, we took the little path through the forest and arrived at the gondola for lunch on the terrace at the little snack bar, with a magnificent view of the mountains. To make the moment really perfect, the nice grandpa next door asked us if he could play his accordion. So we enjoyed this little impromptu concert, watching a lovely retired couple dance. A perfect, loving end to the day!
Total: 3.1 miles, 2 hours, altitude difference 1804ft+ / 853ft-.

Balavaux

On the third day, on the way to our second hotel, we stopped for a hike that was both of our favorites of this road-trip! I’d spotted it on the Novo-monde website.

You get there via a very small, beautiful road and park in a small parking lot in the middle of the forest. I’d already been won over by the beauty of the larch trees along the way, so I couldn’t wait to see what happened next. A word of advice: don’t do as we did and download the GPS track beforehand, because there’s no network. We made do with the few signs and what we’d memorized from the map, and we happily arrived at our destination .

We started off on a pleasant forest trail with a pretty little lake, then stumbled across the most beautiful scenery as we reached the alpine pasture! One word: wow !!!

We stood there for a while, contemplating the scenery, before tackling the difficult part.

It’s a long climb, sometimes quite steep, but the scenery is so beautiful and the photo breaks so numerous that it almost takes away the difficulty ! Especially when a little squirrel makes an appearance . Just before the Balavaux hut, the terrain becomes flat again.

The scenery at the top is equally magnificent, with forests of orange larch trees.

In the end, we didn’t do the loop and decided to return by the same route to enjoy the mountain pastures once again, although I imagine the rest of the hike must have been very beautiful too.

This hike really reminded me of Quebec in autumn, and it was also very quiet, we must have passed around 10 people.
Total: 4.2 miles, 4 hours, altitude difference 1509ft+ / 1444ft-.

Blue Lake Arolla

For our last day, we started with the blue lake of Arolla. I’d read that this was also a popular spot, so we went early in the morning, which wasn’t too difficult, as our hotel was a 10-minute drive away.

We parked at La Gouille and began the climb. Cold mornings are a bit tough, but the scenery was once again beautiful and the colors of the larches as incredible as ever.

After three quarters of an hour of climbing, we arrived at the lake and we were speechless! Even though I’d seen photos of it, the color is truly incredible.

I really advise you to take the tour, because the views change every time. We made the most of it before it got a little too crowded for our liking, and came back down the same way.

Just before the lake, there’s a little hut where you can take a break, and I found it hard to resist their cake . There are several paths to the lake, as well as the possibility of making a loop for those who wish to return by another route (see the site Novo-monde).

We then set off for the Mont Miné glacier.
Total: 1.6 miles, 2 hours, altitude difference 919ft+ / 820ft-.

Mont Miné glacier

We’d loved to see the glaciers on our first road-trip, and when I did some research, I saw that there was this hike 15 minutes from the hotel. To get there, you have to take a very narrow road through a beautiful village and beautiful scenery.

It’s important to know that you can’t park at the Ferpècle dam where the hike starts, as the road is forbidden except to locals. So you have to leave your car beforehand, some people advise you to leave it at the hotel, but we found that there weren’t really any spaces. It’s best to continue to the bend just before the road is closed, where people park. There weren’t any spaces left when we arrived at midday, so we parked a little earlier on the side of the road.

The hike starts on the road up to the dam, then climbs gently up a forest track. We saw that it was possible to take another, more pleasant path along the river, which we did on the way back.

So we followed the forest path and arrived at the edge of a magnificent river. We had a picnic in a real postcard setting, between the river, the little bridge, the hut, the larches and the mountains.

After our break, we continued to the end of the path to reach glacier level. The scenery was spectacular, with snow-capped mountains, glacier, milky-blue river and golden trees, truly magnificent!

A word of advice: don’t go too late at this time of year, as the sun began to disappear around 3pm, and it got very cold, so there was no light left to enjoy the scenery. It’s also possible to make a loop by crossing the little bridge, which we didn’t do, as we had a surprise planned for my darling in the evening .

It’s a hike we also loved, as it was a little crowded without being too much of a nuisance, most people having stopped at the glacier.
Total: 3.7 miles, 2 hours, altitude difference 722ft+ / 656ft-.

Grand bains d’Hérémence

To end my stay in style, I had a surprise in store for my sweetie. About thirty minutes from the hotel, I had spotted the thermal baths recently opened.

The surprise was a pleasant one, as it’s a truly magnificent place to relax. The highlight is the outdoor pool with its magnificent view of the peaks, as the thermal baths are very high up. There are 3 levels, the first with an indoor and outdoor pool, jacuzzi, etc. Upstairs there’s a sauna, hammam, herbal tea areas and sensory showers. And the last, I believe, is reserved for treatments (massages, etc.). We arrived around 4:30pm, so we could enjoy the sunset over the mountains, and left at 7pm.

The only snag is the price: it’s very expensive, CHF 50 per person, but we didn’t regret it, because it’s a very soothing place, very well done and with a magnificent view. What’s more, there’s no time limit and there’s plenty to keep you busy.

Bonus: on the road

The landscapes of Switzerland are really beautiful, and stops are frequent on the way, so here are a few photos .

We found this beautiful covered tunnel by chance, on the road between the Jogne Gorge and Spiez, and when we stopped we saw that there was a footbridge just above it. We’d loved taking the footbridge on our first trip, so we didn’t hesitate for a second.

I had spotted these strange geological formations when preparing the route, but I wasn’t expecting their grandiosity. The Pyramides d’Euseigne are on the road between the villages of Vex andEuseigne. Don’t do as we did and try to find a place to park beforehand, as it’s difficult on this road to stop at the last minute.

How was your trip?

Like the first time, I was pleasantly surprised by Switzerland, I didn’t expect to see such beautiful autumn colors, I really felt like I was in Quebec, without the red of the maples trees . It was a short but truly magnificent trip, and the Swiss landscapes (even more so in autumn) are truly breathtaking: mountains, lakes, villages, real postcards! What’s more, we had great weather and the chance to see some chamois, what more could you ask for!
We also love the sweetness of this country, its chocolate, and never knowing what language to say hello in ! We really feel at home here, and could easily see ourselves living here! All I wanted to do was continue exploring the country under these beautiful colors. Something to keep in mind for next autumn !

Practical information

FLIGHT

Booked 3 days before departure with Easy Jet. For several reasons (fares, schedules, etc.) I couldn’t take a Bordeaux-Geneva flight. Flight Bordeaux-Lyon, 300 euros (round-trip) for 2 without hold baggage.

ACCOMMODATION

Reservation on the Booking website of the 2 hotels.

Boutique hotel Riviera in Spiez, a great little hotel in a great location by the lake (see photo below). Good breakfast and very good Italian restaurant on site. Beware, parking is difficult in Spiez, everything has to be paid for, they have a tiny parking lot with 4 spaces but we had space both nights. 380 CHF/ 2 nights with breakfast.

Hotel Dents de Veisivi in Les Haudères, a family-run hotel with a very good breakfast and also a very good on-site restaurant. The village is very small and cute, with its typical houses. We loved this hotel too. 350 CHF/ 2 nights with breakfast.

CAR RENTAL

Reservation via Carigami .This is the site I use most often, as it is clear about the options chosen (insurance, etc.) and is easy to cancel. As is often the case, we took an automatic car, a little more expensive than a manual, but more pleasant for us. 230 euros for 5 days. They charge a border crossing surcharge of 16 euros. We drove about 950kms.

CAR TRAIN

To reach Les Haudères from Spiez, we took a very original means of transport . The road ends at Kandersteg, and you have to hop on a train to reach Goppenstein.

I had booked the ticket on their website the day before. It’s very well done, it’s valid for 1 year, at any date and time, you just have to choose whether it’s a weekday (cheaper) or weekend trip (if you change, you can still use it, you’ll just have to pay extra, if it was a weekday ticket). Timetables are also posted on their website, but trains are very regular, so if you miss a departure, or it’s fully booked.

On the day, all you have to do is follow the car train road signs. You’ll then arrive at the ticket office, where there are several queues, including one for those who already have a ticket, so you can go faster. From there, all you have to do is wait for the green light to board the train. You stay in the car for the whole journey, which lasts about 15 minutes, almost all of which is spent in a tunnel, which is very confusing ! We really enjoyed this brand-new experience, as it’s really fun to do, and gives the driver a chance to rest ! Price: CHF 26.

HIGHWAYS

You need a vignette to drive in Switzerland. You can buy them at a freeway service area, before crossing the border, or at customs. Price: CHF 40.

Merci, danke, grazie, engraziel (normally all of Switzerland’s official languages are here ) for this wonderful trip !

The post Autumn colors in Switzerland! first appeared on NaturElfes.

Every spring, I wait for the orchids to return, and every time I do, I marvel as if I were discovering them for the first time. Over time, I’ve identified several places around my home (in Charente, France) where I’m almost certain to find them, but every year I make new discoveries, especially when I explore other regions. I don’t know why these flowers fascinate me so much, but perhaps it’s because of their originality and beauty, which is as discreet as it is surprising! To appreciate them, you have to look very closely ;). I love them so much, and have accumulated so many photos, that it was impossible not to dedicate an article to them.

I’ve divided them into three groups: orchids, ophrys and others. Since the same orchid can have several common names, I’ve included the ones I use and, for greater precision, I’ve also added their scientific name. Some orchids are hard to tell apart, so don’t hesitate to tell me if I’ve made a mistake. If you have any suggestions for places to see species I haven’t yet encountered, I’d be more than happy to hear from you ;)!

Orchids

Pyramidal orchid (Anacamptis pyramidalis)
A superb orchid, very common and easy to spot. It also makes a wonderful support for insect photography.

Lizard orchid (Himantoglossum hircinum)
A very original orchid, easy to spot thanks to its size. Zoom in on the flower and you’ll see an adorable (and mischievous) little man with tentacular arms ;). What’s special about this flower is its unpleasant smell. Personally, I don’t find the smell of a goat but rather that of chemicals.

Early purple orchid (Orchis mascula)
One of the first orchids to bloom, it’s discreet and I rarely come across it.

Fragrant orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea)
An orchid I really like. Its flowers are magnificent, full of sweetness and a lovely scent. I also see a lot of insects on its flowers. Probably the most poetic orchid I know.

Greater butterfly orchid (Platanthera chlorantha)
An orchid I come across a lot, its flowers are really beautiful and very delicate. It gives off a perfume at night that attracts moths.

Spotted Orchid (Dactylorhiza maculata)
Superb orchid discovered in Auvergne, then Lozere in France. Its flowers are truly magnificent!

Lady orchid (Orchis purpurea)
A very pretty orchid, quite easy to spot as it is very colorful and fleshy.

Man orchid (Orchis anthropophora)
Its name is self-explanatory ;). I find it in the same place as the oval-leaved fern (see The Others). Its flowers look like cute little cousins of the lizard orchid ;).

Loose-flowered orchid (Anacamptis laxiflora)
Orchids discovered on the Oleron island in France. They grow in damp meadows and marshes. I was lucky enough to come across a field where I was able to admire dozens of them, made all the more magnificent by the mixture of classic pink orchids and white ones.

Ophrys

Bee orchid (Ophrys apifera)
The first orchid I discovered, thanks to my mom, triggered my passion for these flowers. It imitates (like many ophrys) an insect and gives off pheromones so that insects “breed” with it to carry its pollen. Often found in gardens, it can vary in shape and color, including some that are all white (hypochrome).

Fly orchid (Ophrys insectifera)
One of my favorites because of the shape of its flowers. I feel like I’m looking at a cute little alien insect! You have to be careful to spot it because it’s so slender.

Early spider Orchid (Ophrys sphegodes)
There are many sub-varieties of spider ophrys, each more beautiful than the last and equally difficult to differentiate, such as the blackish ophrys, the little spider ophrys, and many others. It’s on the island of Oleron, in France, that I’ve seen the most of these varieties. Another orchid with a unique flower shape that gives free rein to the imagination. A bit like clouds: everyone can see what they want ;). For my part, I often see the face of a crowned queen, slightly melancholy.

Woodcock orchid (Ophrys scolopax)
Superb orchid, which I don’t see very often. It’s very similar to the Bee Orchid, but with a little something extra ;)!

The Others

Red helleborine (Cephalanthera rubra)
An orchid I discovered on our trek along the Saint-Guilhem trail in France, and which I was delighted to see near my home the following year. For me, it’s one of the most beautiful and closest to the “commercial” orchids.

Sword-Leaved Helleborine (Cephalanthera longifolia)
Another beautiful orchid that I don’t see very often. Its flowers don’t open much.

Tongue orchid (Serapias lingua)
Orchid also discovered on the Oleron island, in France, in the same field as the loose-flowered orchids (see Orchids). So original that I wasn’t sure it belonged to the orchid family. Its flower seems closed.

Bird’s-Nest orchid (Neottia nidus-avis)
My discovery of 2024!!! I’d never heard of this orchid, and more importantly I didn’t know orchids grew in the middle of the woods. I’m sure I’ve missed this treasure dozens of times. Its stem looks very much like a mushroom’s and it has the particularity of growing without photosynthesis, feeding directly on trees, via a fungus.

Common twayblade (Neottia ovata)
Another very original orchid, which I see in the same place every year. It’s very easy to miss, its flowers are very small and it’s entirely green.

Violet limodore (Limodorum abortivum)
A recently-discovered orchid with the same peculiarity as the bird’s-nest neottie. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to photograph it as I’d hoped, as it was just finishing flowering. A mission for next year ;).

Helleborine
A family of orchids that I also discovered on the Saint-Guilhem trail in France, and which I found incredible! Their flowers are magnificent and very different from those I’ve known up to now. I hope I made the right identification.

Broad-leaved Helleborine (Epipactis Helleborine)

Mueller’s Helleborine (Epipactis muelleri)

Dark Red Helleborine (Epipactis atrorubens)

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