Fakarava: a paradise on Earth
Fakarava was my greatest love story in Polynesia! A lost atoll in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, where life is stripped down to the bare minimum⊠and that’s exactly what makes it so magical. An incredibly rich underwater world, sharks everywhere, lagoons in breathtaking colors, magnificent sunsetsâŠ
The place in a few words
Fakarava is the second largest atoll in French Polynesia, stretching 60 km long and 25 km wide. Listed as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, it is home to one of the greatest marine biodiversities in the Pacific. The atoll is famous for its two passes, the North Pass (Garuae) and the South Pass (Tumakohua), considered among the best diving and snorkeling spots in the world, particularly for shark watching.
Unlike the other islands of French Polynesia, there is no relief here, no lush vegetation â just a thin strip of land sitting on the ocean with the bare minimum: no school beyond primary level, a doctor who visits every six months⊠Here, life is simple and that’s exactly what I loved about it. No stress, no schedules, just the sun, the water and the fish đ.
Practical information
Fakarava is served by Air Tahiti and Air Moana. Most flights depart from Tahiti (around 1h10 direct flight, âŹ115/person return at the time of my trip), but some connections also exist from other islands. Air Tahiti offers multi-island passes which can be a great option if you plan to visit several atolls in the Tuamotu archipelago.
The only village on the atoll is Rotoava, a tiny village of around 850 inhabitants with its pretty church built from white coral walls and a few shops. There are no large hotels on the atoll, only family guesthouses and a few lodges. Excursions (snorkeling, divingâŠ) are organized either by the guesthouses themselves or by local providers. Getting around is simple â there is only one road of about 25 km, so this is definitely not a road trip destination đ! Cycling is the most common way to get around the atoll. It is also possible to rent scooters or cars from local providers. Most restaurants and diving clubs offer to pick you up and drop you back at your guesthouse.
đ Good to know: French Polynesia has two seasons, a dry season from May to October and a wet season from November to April. The dry season is the ideal time to visit Fakarava, with less rainfall and slightly cooler temperatures. That said, it’s warm all year round!
South Pass: pink sands, sharks and drift snorkeling
The South Pass excursion was one of the many highlights of this trip. First you have to reach the South Pass, which is quite far, but you get to enjoy the scenery and the flying fish along the way đ.
First snorkeling stop by the village of Tetamanu. Sharks and fish everywhere, including a magnificent Napoleon fish with its protractile mouth that caught us completely off guard â like a before and after botox đ!
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Then off to the pink sands⊠and what a shock! Like something out of a film, we found ourselves alone on this tiny motu with its incredible colors: the pink of the sand, the blue of the waterâŠ
Well, not entirely alone â an army of giant hermit crabs was busy devouring coconuts. A truly paradise spot!
After that, back to the village of Tetamanu, where our captains prepared a lovely meal in the shade of the trees. A dog kept us well entertained: sitting in the water, I was worried about the sharks circling around him â until I realised the hunter wasn’t who I thought it was đ! After lunch, we explored the village and its beautiful little church.
Then came the drift snorkeling. It was my first time and it was a little unsettling at first to feel yourself carried away by the current⊠but you quickly get a taste for it!
The day wasn’t over yet â we did another drift snorkeling, this time above hundreds of grey reef sharks and whitetips đ. They were really deep down but it was a magical moment, hard to put into words: the speed of the current, the seabed rushing past beneath us⊠one of the best moments of the whole trip. Back on the boat, our captains suggested doing it a second time and strangely enough, everyone was up for it đ!
North Pass: colorful lagoons, dolphins and little scares
Second excursion, this time to the North Pass. First stop at the bird island where we enjoyed a wonderful snorkeling session.
Then off to the green lagoon for a coconut break. Imagine sipping a freshly cut coconut on a tiny isolated islet in the middle of the ocean⊠đ.
Next stop, the magnificent blue lagoon. To get there we first walked through crystal clear water, then through coconut palms before reaching the edge of a lagoon with unreal colors đ. Our captain warned us that there would be less to see here compared to the previous snorkeling spot⊠sure đ!
I was alone, drifting away from the group, admiring the fish when suddenly a shark of about 3 meters swam right past me. Let’s just say I wasn’t feeling my bravest đ±! I swam back to shore and the captain explained it was a nurse shark, a species completely harmless to humans â so I went straight back in to admire it!
After all those thrills, we headed to another spot for more snorkeling and this time it was my friend who got a little scare when a titan triggerfish attacked her. I didn’t take it too seriously at the time, but it was only when I got back to France that I discovered it’s a fish equipped with very impressive teeth, well known for being the nightmare of divers!
To finish, our captains gave us a wonderful surprise by taking us to see a group of dolphins. And they decided to play with the boat â what more could you ask for đ!
At Fakarava’s pace: cycling, massage and marine life
We rented bikes from the guesthouse and headed off to the village of Rotoava. Traffic was the least of our worries đ unlike the heat! A little shower was more than welcome.
Next stop, Coco Massage at Havaiki Lodge for a one-hour Polynesian coconut massage. One of the best massages I have ever had! The lodge is also home to the Snack du Requin Dormeur, where you can eat with your feet in the water with a very good chance of having a shark wandering between the tables!
Back at the guesthouse, we were treated to a magnificent show from nature: two nurse sharks swimming in just a few centimeters of water under the pontoon, trying to flush a grouper out of its hole đ.
For lunch, the guesthouse took us to a local snack bar. When we worried about getting back, they answered with the most natural simplicity: “when you’re done, the snack bar calls us and we come” đ! That’s how the whole stay worked â no stress, no schedules, just life at its most simple.
The afternoon was spent alternating between rest and snorkeling. We had incredible marine life just steps from the bungalow. It is very easy to spend hours in the water given all the species living there: a multitude of colorful fish, sharks, titan triggerfish, moray eelsâŠ
To end the day, we headed out on the guesthouse canoes to admire the sunset over the lagoon and watch the usual evening ritual: the blacktip reef shark fin prowling the surface of the water đ.
Pension Vaiama played a huge part in falling in love with Fakarava! From the moment we arrived, they came to pick us up at the airport with the traditional flower lei đ. The bungalow sat right on the beach, with a natural aquarium at your doorstep and a paradise view over the lagoon. The guesthouse offers free canoes and the pass excursions were organized by the owner’s sons. Two water-loving dogs đ and a cat completed the team!
Every evening, all the guests gathered around the same table in a wonderfully family atmosphere. A special mention for Vai, the cook, warm and funny, with a laugh you simply cannot forget. If she’s still there, make sure you meet her! During my stay, the guesthouse was âŹ220 per night for two on a half-board basis â prices may have changed since then.
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